Day 3 - Overland Track, Tasmania

Windermere Hut to New Pelion Hut 
Distance to cover: 17.5km
Forecast: Snow clearing
Dinner to look forward to: Rehydrated Lamb and Pumpkin Tagine with Couscous
Socks and Boots: Frozen and snow covered

This morning we awoke to a magical sight outside... snow! Just a light dusting, like icing sugar, over all of the forest and rocks. It's pretty cold but just spectacular and I would rather walk in gently falling snow than rain!

I wish I hadn't left my boots in the snow!

 

The track today takes us out of the forest the hut is nestled in, up and over an extensive buttongrass moorland with Mt Ossa, Mt Pelion East and West visible, and columns of Mt Oakleigh in the distance. We wind our way up to a beech forest that is also dusted with snow, including some blooming Tassie Waratahs.

magical!

buttongrass flower head

Passing by Mt Pelion West

Tasmanian Waratah

The track goes downhill gradually to the swampy area called Frog Flats, then back up through rainforest to finally pop out at a huge grassy valley. I was expecting to see marauding herds of wombats grazing the grassland but no such luck. We did see some quoll poos near Old Pelion hut (disused) which was pretty exciting.

I am so glad we didn't try to tack today and yesterday together in the rain as it would have been a really long and hard slog. I spoke to some of the guys that did continue on in the rain and they said they didn't see any of the mountains we passed because the rain and mist were too dense! Shame.


Today was the longest distance from hut to hut so we started the day looking at one side of Mt Oakleigh and ended up camped in the valley next to it on the other side. The hut here is stunning, with a massive verandah to sit and take in the view (past all the drying socks hung on the railing)

Panorama of Mt Oakleigh and the button grass valley

Around the hut were some friendly Pademelons and Bennett's (aka red-necked on the mainland) wallabies. One of the female wallabies had a big joey that ventured out for a hop around. He did the usual thing of hopping bravely away from mum and then realising she had wandered away and hurrying back to hide underneath her. At one point a currawong wandered past them and he watched it so intensely, ready to sprint away if it got too close. I guess he hadn't seen one of those things before!

Harro!

At 5pm, two of the more experienced hikers sent out a search party for the older couple, knowing how slow they were and that they didn't have a tent. They were last seen only a few kms from Windermere hut despite setting off as early as they could. The track was tricky in many places today because of tree roots and mud. When our search party had not returned by 9pm we considered sending out a second search party, but figured that the first group had probably pulled together some kind of camp by now.  Eventually they all turned up, the stronger lads carrying 2 packs each so that the older couple had nothing to carry. She seemed to find the whole situation quite amusing, and what a lovely bunch of people we were to be concerned for them. I don't think she quite grasped the gravity of the situation. They were found 5km from their destination, meaning that they had traveled 10km in 10 hrs and would have had to sleep rough at the swamp that night if nobody had helped them. Considering I was cold sleeping inside the hut I don't know how well they would have done. She talked loudly about her day's experiences until someone told her to shush at 10pm.

Sean and I shared some of the port tonight as a celebration for making it halfway!

Day 2 - Overland Track, Tasmania

Waterfall Valley to Windermere Hut
Distance to cover: 7km
Forecast: Rain, snow
Dinner to look forward to: Tofu Panaeng curry with rehydrated vegetables
Socks and Boots: Damp

mmm... orange

A short day today, only 7km. The next stretch of track is 17.5km and many of the "group" from the first hut intend to double-hut and head on to the next one. We considered it, but knowing how slow we were yesterday (taking photos of everything that moved, and also things that didn't) I don't think 23km in one day would be a very good idea. This decision was reinforced as soon as we stepped out the door in the morning... the weather has properly set in!

Mt Emmett is not even visible this morning!

Off we trudged into the misty rain. Sean has very beautiful high vis orange waterproof pants so he was not easy to lose. There was quite a lot of luxurious boardwalk over marshland, but we did spend quite a few kms sloshing through some pretty awesome mud. Sometimes there were old planks submerged in the mud to get a foothold on, sometimes not. The rain was blowing in an unpleasant sideways kind of way, the kind that finds itself getting inside raincoat sleeves and dripping down necks. My boots, although comfortable, are not at all waterproof. I knew this before we started and just accepted that I would have wet feet on some days. I didn't really expect the kind of mudholes we saw so in hindsight would recommend people take waterproof boots.

Inpenetrable... not

We even skipped the side trip to Lake Will  that would have been across flat, open moors. The guidebook says "A recommended sidetrip in fine weather". Sean cracked it when he made a wrong step and was almost knee deep in runny black mud. Twice. At this point (after laughing only a little bit) I thought it best for all concerned that we put our heads down and get moving. We made it to Windermere hut by lunchtime and were glad to shed our sodden gear and have a hot cuppa. I read my book for most of the afternoon in a nice warm beanie and watched the clouds and rain continue to roll through.

An older couple who had been at the previous hut pulled in after lunch. Everybody was surprised that they had continued as we had overheard the ranger last night telling them that he thought they should turn back. As the trip went on, we learned more and more details of their situation; both over 60, the husband, Graham, seemed slightly senile or had perhaps suffered a stroke at some time. He had had a hip replacement in the past and wasn't coping at all with the mud. The wife, Marion, was strong despite her small stature but was not enjoying a heavy pack and had abandoned their tent back at Kitchen Hut. (Tents are an essential for this walk - every group is required to carry one as a safety precaution for unpredictable weather conditions.) We learned later that they didn't make the first hut in one day - they spent the night before we got on the track sleeping rough in the frost. Today they moved at about 500m/hour because Graham kept getting stuck in the mud and being blown over by the wind. They seem determined to press on tomorrow for the 17.5km distance.

Late in the evening (sunset is at 9.30pm) we see the rain turn to sleet, then hail, then back to rain. There is a female Pademelon sitting out in it with her ears back, gathering snow on her fur. After a while there is a rummage in her pouch and a small head pops out for a look around!

Nobody is game to camp tonight so those who are staying at Windermere all squash into the hut and it is soon warm(ish) with cooking stoves and body heat!

Day 1 - Overland Track, Tasmania

Dove Lake to Waterfall Valley.
Distance to cover: 10km
Forecast: Fine, late showers
Dinner to look forward to: Risotto with bacon and fresh mushrooms
Socks and Boots: Clean and dry


This morning we apprehensively start our trek from Cradle Valley, over Cradle Mountain, to the first hut on the Overland Track. We spent last night in the luxurious surrounds of Cradle Mountain Lodge, a stunning hotel nestled at the edge of the Lord of the Rings-esque national park. We wined and dined - well, I wined - and enjoyed our last luxurious hot shower for the week. I saw my very first Wombat here. So exciting!

nom nom nom

Contemplating the view of CM over a glass of Pinot

Vertical profile of what lays ahead. Huts in blue.
From http://www.parks.tas.gov.au/index.aspx?base=7827

The guide book has told us that today is the hardest day and the climb up from Dove Lake to the Cradle summit looks pretty steep on the map. Adding to that, today is the day where we have the most weight as we have full bottles of fuel (metho) and all the food we can stuff into our packs. I wish we had some bathroom scales this morning but I think we are both starting with about 16-17kg. Not too bad considering that includes all clothes, wet weather gear, food, cooking stove, sleeping bags and mats, a tent, water, toiletries and medical kit, a DSLR (each!!) and a couple of treats like fresh tomatoes and a bottle of port. I will link a packing list somewhere later as I think we did a pretty good job. *It's in the comments for day 6*.

Looking disturbingly energised, clean and matching.

From the start point. CM looks far away!

So, off we go. We are very lucky with the weather, it is a stunning day and nice and cool for walking. The bus driver tells us that there are only 32 cloudless days here so we are very lucky to have started on one of those. The days before and after were not so fine!

Boatshed on Dove Lake, Cradle Mountain in the background.

Our trek mascot Womby the plastic wombat starts the journey with us. Made in China, rescued from Geelong, traveling through Tasmania.

Womby, Japanese tourists in goretex, Dove Lake.

I notice that I have less high tech camping clothing than the group of Japanese tourists who pile off the bus with us at the lake, take photos and get back on the bus. Hm.

a wombat went over a mountain

The walk is steep but there's nothing you can't tackle by taking it slow. We stop at Marion's lookout for lunch and refill our water bottles with clean snow!! The views are breathtaking in every direction. We pass Kitchen Hut through some more snow that fell last night. This hut is only used in emergencies now. It has two doors, one at ground level, one 6ft high for when the snow is too deep to open the bottom one, and a shovel for when the snow is too deep to open the top door! From here, people can drop their packs and climb to the summit of Cradle Mountain. Even though it's a beautiful day, we are running a little later than expected so we push on.

Last night's snow, near Kitchen Hut.

Ahhhh, so this is what those walking poles are for.

Kitchen Hut and the CM summit is the end of where the day walkers go. After this point, we are properly on the Overland. The first thing we notice is that the track degrades significantly! Up until now it has been cleanly marked gravel tracks, steps made of rock or planks, and long sections of thin boardwalk where you walk over marshland. Immediately after Kitchen Hut we start prodding in deep muddy bogs looking for elusive planks or rocks that might be used as stepping stones. At this stage we naievely don't want to get out boots and socks wet. Ha.


After a few more km of rock hopping between puddles, we have traveled around the base of CM and walk out along a ridge toward the first hut. The habitat changes from "alpine" heath to drier eucalypt forest to marshland in the lower areas. I think we slowed down a lot toward the end of the afternoon as the last section took a lot longer than the recommended 1.5 hrs. Eventually Waterfall Valley hut is in sight and we can put down those heavy packs!

There is quite a crowd at these first two huts, both are full plus some extras camping in their tents. I think we had 34 in total tonight. It was nice to get to know a few people as we will be seeing them each evening for the next few days! We got in just as the weather came in and a fine mist of rain settled on the valley for the night.

 

Old Waterfall Valley hut (sleeps 8), with Mt Emmett in the background.